OCCRE Academy
Cómo aplicar el segundo forro del casco y prepararlo para barnizar o pintar

How to apply the second planking of the hull and prepare it for varnishing or painting

August 04, 2026

The second planking is the visible finish of the hull. Unlike the first planking, which provides shape and structure, this layer determines what the model will look like before it's varnished or painted.

In this OcCre Academy lesson we show you how to apply the second planking with wood glue, how to shape the planks around curved areas with wedges, and how to get a smooth surface with filler, ready for the finish.

What is the second planking and how is it different from the first?

The second planking is the layer of planks applied over the first planking and which will stay visible once the model is finished. Its role is aesthetic: it provides the colour, texture and visible pattern of the hull.

It differs from the first planking in three ways:

  • The glue: we use wood glue (not the basic white glue) because it grips faster and offers better adhesion on a surface that's already been planked.
  • The fixing: no pins or nails are used. The grip of the wood glue, combined with manual pressure, is enough.
  • The finish: after the planking, filler is applied to cover joints and imperfections, and it's sanded until the surface is completely smooth.

Before you start: what you need to have ready

Before laying the first plank of the second planking, make sure you have:

  • The first planking finished and checked. If you haven't done it yet, start with the previous lesson: How to apply the first planking of the hull.
  • The second planking strips from the kit (usually a finer wood than those of the first planking).
  • Wood glue. It's a reinforced PVA with more tack and a faster set than basic white glue.
  • Water-based wood filler. We recommend this one because it sands well and takes both paint and varnish without any issues.
  • A small spatula to apply the filler.
  • Fine sandpaper (240 grit or similar) for finishing after the filler.
  • A container of water in case you need to bend any plank. If you've never done this before, watch how to bend wooden strips without breaking them.

Why we use wood glue on the second planking

On the first planking we used white PVA glue with pins to hold the planks in place while they dried. On the second planking we switch to wood glue for three reasons:

  • It grips faster: you can work without needing pins to hold the planks.
  • Better adhesion on a worked surface: the first planking already provides a solid, uniform base, and wood glue behaves better on this kind of surface.
  • Less mess: the excess that squeezes out at the edges is cleaner and easier to wipe off with a damp cloth.

It's not contact adhesive: it's a PVA (same family as white glue) but with a faster formulation and stronger initial grip.

How to apply the second planking step by step

The process is similar to the first planking, but without pins and with more attention to the aesthetics. This is the sequence we follow in the workshop:

  1. Start from the top, at the gunwale, just like on the first planking. Working from top to bottom keeps you in control of the curve.
  2. Work symmetrically. Fit a plank on one side and then its counterpart on the opposite side. Never plank one full side before the other.
  3. Apply wood glue along the full length of the plank, on the face that will meet the first planking.
  4. Press the plank firmly for a few seconds, following the curve of the hull. Wood glue grips fast, so the plank stays fixed without needing pins.
  5. Wipe off the excess glue with a slightly damp cloth before it dries.
  6. Repeat on the opposite side before moving on to the next plank.
  7. Carry on plank by plank, working down from the gunwale to the keel, always in symmetrical pairs.

If a plank won't adapt to a tight curve, pre-bend it by soaking it in water for 20 minutes before gluing.

How to cut the wedges for the curved areas

Just like on the first planking, as you work down towards the keel the hull narrows and triangular gaps appear where full planks don't fit.

The solution is to cut wedges to measure: plank fragments shaped exactly to the gap. They're glued with the same wood glue. On the second planking these wedges are especially important because they'll stay visible, so get the shape right before you glue and avoid gaps between pieces.

Small imperfections that remain are corrected afterwards with filler.

How to apply filler for a uniform surface

Once the whole second planking is in place and the glue is completely dry (24 hours), it's time to apply the filler. This step is what makes the difference between an amateur model and a properly finished one.

The procedure:

  1. Check the surface: run your hand over the whole hull and identify visible joints, small gaps or uneven spots.
  2. Apply water-based wood filler with the small spatula. Fill the joints and imperfections, pressing well so the filler penetrates.
  3. Wipe off the excess with the spatula itself, leaving the surface as flat as possible before it dries.
  4. Let it dry for the time indicated by the manufacturer (usually 1-2 hours for water-based filler).
  5. Repeat if necessary: deeper gaps may need a second pass.

We use water-based filler because it sands really well, doesn't crack as it dries and takes both paint and varnish without any compatibility issues.

How to sand the filler and get the hull ready

Once the filler is dry, it's time to sand for a completely smooth surface:

  • Use fine sandpaper (240 grit or finer).
  • Sand along the grain, with smooth, even strokes.
  • Check with your hand by running your palm over the whole surface. There should be no bumps, steps or rough spots.
  • Remove the dust with a dry cloth or a brush before applying the finish.

If while sanding you notice any unfilled gaps, apply a second coat of filler and sand again. It's better to do it twice than to leave imperfections that will show through after varnishing.

Common mistakes when applying the second planking

  • Using basic white glue instead of wood glue: the grip is slower and you'll need mechanical fixing, which is exactly what we don't want on a planking that stays visible.
  • Applying filler over glue that's still wet: the filler doesn't bond properly and ends up flaking off. Always wait 24 hours before filling.
  • Applying too much filler at once: two thin coats are better than one thick one. Thick filler cracks as it dries.
  • Sanding with grit that's too coarse: leaves visible marks that will show through when varnishing. Use 240 grit or finer.
  • Not wiping off excess glue: glue that dries on the plank surface creates stains that later don't take varnish well.

How to know the hull is ready for varnishing or painting

Three checks before applying the finish:

  • Smooth to the touch: run your hand over the whole hull. There should be no steps, bumps or rough spots.
  • No visible gaps: hold the hull up to the light. There shouldn't be open joints or small holes.
  • Symmetry maintained: look at the hull from above, from the bow and from the stern. The planking lines should follow the curve of the hull on both sides equally.

If everything checks out, the hull is ready for the next step: varnish to preserve the natural colour of the wood, or paint if you prefer a coloured finish.

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